Dublin

That Dublin is renown for both the gift of gab and the Book of Kells is not merely a coincidence. This is a city of stories, a city of writers and poets, wordsmiths and playwrights, a city of intricate flourishes and grand ideas. 

Georgian Doors around St. Stephens Green, Dublin

This is also a city of pubs, perhaps because as someone once observed, “no great novel ever began by eating a salad.” Here, it’s all about the conversation. Although some pubs provide entertainment, in many there are no fiddles or pipes, no mournful renditions of “Danny Boy”, nothing to distract from the pressing task of putting the world to rights. 

“Being Irish, he had an abiding sense of tragedy, 

which sustained him through temporary periods of joy.” 
                                                   ― William Butler Yeats

James Joyce liked to hang out at Davy Byrnie’s pub, William Butler Yeats at Toner’s where tall tales and great literature share a corner table with the poetry of Seamus Heaney and the plays of Samuel Beckett. Dublin is a UNESCO City of Literature, there are few cities that care so deeply about the written word. 

The Book of Kells, Trinity College, Dublin

And Ireland’s greatest national treasure is the holy grail of the written word; The Book of Kells. The impossibly intricate designs and elaborate flourishes on the the 1,200 year old vellum remind me of the haiku describing the excruciating weight of the moth on the one ton temple bell. Pages are sumptuously illuminated with Celtic knots, floral designs, swirls and flourishes, but hidden among and between is another whole miniature world of cats and mice fighting over food, an otter with a fish, and rows of heavenly seraphim. The book is ceremonial rather than functional, designed to extoll the greater glory of God and it is a remarkable insight on the impact that the Catholic Church had on the life of the country.

“An idea that is not dangerous

is unworthy of being called an idea at all.”

~ Oscar Wilde

Although we didn’t have an opportunity to walk the pagan pathway to the sacred site of Cnoc na dTobar in the mountains of Kerry, we did make another required Irish pilgrimage. Jameson’s Irish Whiskey has been distilling Uisce beatha, literally “the water of life”, since 1780 and although they slowed down a bit during prohihition the demand for whiskey around the world is through the roof and the distinctively smooth finish of Irish Whiskey gives it a leg up over most other whiskeys. Jameson’s 15 y/o Redbreast quickly became a favorite. But we couldn’t stop with just Jameson’s and headed off to Teeling Distillery for a sample of the competition. Teeling’s 34 year old Vintage Reserve Single Malt is at the top of everyone’s top ten list, but at $5,000 USD a bottle, it’s not your every day, or every year, or perhaps even every lifetime kind of whiskey. This list goes on, Green Spot, White Spot, Dead Rabbit… so many whiskeys, so little time!

Jameson's Distillery, Dublin

And there is yet another well known Dublin landmark of particular importance. Located at 17 Chatham St. just around the corner from Grafton St. is an old Irish pub painted a traditional red and black with gold lettering above the door announcing “Sheehan’s Pub”. This is the place that our grandfather’s brother Jeremiah Sheehan founded in 1933. It’s been handed down a couple of times from father to son and is now in the capable hands of Paul Sheehan, the grandson of Jeremiah. 

Sheehan's, 17 Chatham St, Dublin

We had briefly met Paul when we were here 25 years ago and had been looking forward to seeing him again but we arrived unannounced to find that he was off that day but his sister, Alana, was there. We had no idea that Paul even had a sister but in fact he has two, Alana and Evelyn. We did not meet Evelyn but Alana was wonderful. The pub was busy that night but she took time to have multiple (if briefly interrupted) conversations, even presenting us with traditional Irish snap-brimmed caps emblazoned with the Sheehan logo!

Bill, Alana & Sue

Oh, and the Pope was there! Not at Sheehan’s Pub unfortunately, but he was in the city trying to drum up more interest in what the Catholic Church has accomplished , or perhaps deflect criticism from what the Catholic Church has accomplished. But anyway he drove right by us in his bubble-top PopeMobile, waving to anyone who would pay attention! For a prominently Catholic country, I was surprised at the mixed reception, some obviously thrilled that he spent several days here and others expressing regret that, with the country facing significant issues of homelessness, and neglect, millions of dollars was being spent on security and other issues surrounding the papal visit. 

"This never was my town,
I was not born or bred
Nor schooled here and she will not
Have me alive or dead
But yet she holds my mind
With her seedy elegance,
With her gentle veils of rain
And all her ghosts that walk
And all that hide behind
Her Georgian facades."

                                                    ~ Louis MacNeice