September 10th is the official “Day of the Horsemen” celebrated on the Sunday before Independence Day (16 September). There’s a special “Cowboy Mass” at noon at San Andres Church followed by a parade through the west end of the village that honors the horsemen who played such a vital role in the struggles of the people of Mexico.
The main event however is a Charreada (rodeo) at the Lienzo Charro on the east side of town. But this is not your average cowboy rodeo event. You have to admire (if that’s the right word) the guy who first thought it was a good idea to gallop at full tilt beside a running bull, reach down and grab it by the tail, wrap the tail around his leg, and attempt to flip the cow over as he rides by, an event called Coleaderoor or steer tailing.
There’s an astonishing performance by the Escaramuzas Charras, a team of 10 young women who expertly perform spectacular precision riding. One of the women’s events involves galloping at full speed across the arena and then abruptly slamming on the brakes, screeching to a halt in a cloud of dust just short of the finish line. All this while riding side-saddle of course, and dressed in the voluminous, multilayered skirts of their beautiful traditional costumes. This is both art and sport, born of intense discipline and training. The bonds, understanding, and grace between these women and their horses is astonishing. They truly are one, like a couple who have been dancing the same dance together for fifty years.
There’s another event called El Paso de le Muerte (The pass of death) where two charros on horseback chase (haze) a wild, unbroken, mare around the arena until the wild horse is charging hell bent for leather at which point a third charro, riding bareback of course, gallops up beside and attempts to leap from his horse onto the bare back of the charging, bucking, frightened, 1,200 pound animal, and ride the unbroken horse without reins until it stops bucking. If the charro misses his leap, the two other charging horses are right on his heels and are sure to trample him as flat as a corn tortilla. It’s all about skilled horsemanship, bravery, and pride. And it’s crazy!
Then there’s the Manganas a Pie (Forefooting) where a horse is chased around the ring by three mounted charros and another charro, on foot, attempts to rope the charging steed by it’s front legs, causing it to fall and roll. Extra points are awarded for the Tirón del Ahorcado (Hanged Pull) in which the rope, rather than being held in the charro’s gloved hands, is tied like a noose around his neck and he uses his body to cause the horse to fall and roll.
The history and culture of the Charrería goes back to the 17th and 18th centuries and has evolved over time into this sport. It originated from farm-hands working with cattle and horses or vaqueros competing against each to test their skills. Eventually it developed into a competition when neighboring haciendas would come together with their cows and horses to sell or for branding.
To be a charro is not just a pastime for an occasional weekend, it’s a way of life that has largely been forgotten by those who live in urban areas. The entire culture may seem at odds with an urban mindset, however this is a way of life born of necessity centuries ago, with deep traditions and values that continue to be celebrated today. Some events, beliefs, and cultures may not be what we’re accustomed to, and what is normal and acceptable to one person is not the same as it is for others. This is why we travel. This is part of why we love living in different parts of the world, to experience different cultures, to explore others’ beliefs and perhaps to question our own, but to not be too quick to pass judgment.
There is much to be said for this kind of authentic cultural event and much to celebrate about this kind of life that many people in the world never have a chance to experience. Charreadas is a Mexican traditional competition that tests a charro’s abilities and mastery of the knowledge and skills that are essential to their culture and their way of life; treating animals with care and respect, athleticism, teamwork, roping, lassoing, horse control skills, and it is exhilarating to watch.
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