A Village in A Circle

The juxtaposition is jarring. The audacity is outrageous. That a society 5,000 years ago could conceive of a landscape so intricate and complex that it literally connects heaven and earth, and then structure their culture and society such that they could construct this colossal monument over many generations is simply astonishing. The henge survives as an enormous bank and ditch (originally 55' high and 30’ deep) nearly four football fields wide, encompassing the largest stone circle in Britain which in turn encloses two other stone circles. The standing stones are enormous, some as high as 14’ and weighing over 40 tons. The earth here is mostly chalk and the site of this enormous walled circle glistening in the sun must have been truly awe inspiring.

That other people in the recent past could barge into this extraordinary landscape, build homes and farms on this seemingly sacred ground and break apart these enormous stones to build churches, barns and chicken coops seems stunning and outrageous, but the same actions are being pursued by the United States Government today in areas like the Bear’s Ears National Monument in southeast Utah.

The neolithic complex dates from around 2850 BC, the beginning of the Bronze Age, before the pyramids of Egypt, a thousand years before Abraham. It is a landscape that gave physical expression to that community’s ideas about the relationship between heaven and earth, and their own place within that cosmos. 

This is a grand design that fulfills the societal need for a ritual landscape as an expression of a community’s desire for stability and continuity. We have always been drawn to the comfort of constancy and order, that night follows day, spring follows winter, and the stars arc across the heavens each night, returning to the same position in the sky each year. This landscape reveals the order and the constancy of the universe on a grand scale and provides stability to our seemingly chaotic lives, and the promise of a predictable future.

The sprawling randomness with which the town and farmhouses have encroached on this landscape is perhaps a reminder that, despite our attempts at preservation all this will, like us, eventually be churned under and a new landscape will take its place.

DreamScapes

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Happy 95th Birthday, Peg!

We went back to Washington D.C. in November to celebrate Cathy’s Mom’s 95 birthday! We were delighted to see Peg and had a wonderful, but far too brief visit. 

We had first stopped by Lancaster, PA  to visit with Cathy’s sister Susie and her husband Craig for a few days prior and then drove to Fairfax, VA where Peg lives in an assisted living home and where Cathy’s other sister Becky and her husband Mike had arranged for us all to enjoy an early Thanksgiving dinner together with Peg.

It was delightful to see everyone, although Cathy’s brother Andy was not able to get here from Arizona. But the afternoon was full of chatter, memories from years ago were bantered back and forth, there was lots of teasing among sisters, and most of all a lot of laughter. Which is what birthdays and reunions are really all about.

Happy Birthday, Peg!

Postales del Paraiso: Dia del Charro

September 10^th is the official “Day of the Horsemen” celebrated on the Sunday before Independence Day (16 September). There’s a special “Cowboy Mass” at noon at San Andres Church followed by a parade through the west end of the village that honors the horsemen who played such a vital role in the struggles of the people of Mexico. 

The main event however is a Charreada (rodeo) at the Lienzo Charro on the east side of town. But this is not your average cowboy rodeo event. You have to admire (if that’s the right word) the guy who first thought it was a good idea to gallop at full tilt beside a running bull, reach down and grab it by the tail, wrap the tail around his leg, and attempt to flip the cow over as he rides by, an event called Coleaderoor or steer tailing. 

There’s an astonishing performance by the Escaramuzas Charras, a team of 10 young women who expertly perform spectacular precision riding. One of the women’s events involves galloping at full speed across the arena and then abruptly slamming on the brakes, screeching to a halt in a cloud of dust just short of the finish line. All this while riding side-saddle of course, and dressed in the voluminous, multilayered skirts of their beautiful traditional costumes. This is both art and sport, born of intense discipline and training. The bonds, understanding, and grace between these women and their horses is astonishing. They truly are one, like a couple who have been dancing the same dance together for fifty years.

There’s another event called El Paso de le Muerte (The pass of death) where two charros on horseback chase (haze) a wild, unbroken, mare around the arena until the wild horse is charging hell bent for leather at which point a third charro, riding bareback of course, gallops up beside and attempts to leap from his horse onto the bare back of the charging, bucking, frightened, 1,200 pound animal, and ride the unbroken horse without reins until it stops bucking. If the charro misses his leap, the two other charging horses are right on his heels and are sure to trample him as flat as a corn tortilla. It’s all about skilled horsemanship, bravery, and pride. And it’s crazy!

Then there’s the Manganas a Pie (Forefooting) where a horse is chased around the ring by three mounted charros and another charro, on foot, attempts to rope the charging steed by it’s front legs, causing it to fall and roll. Extra points are awarded for the Tirón del Ahorcado (Hanged Pull) in which the rope, rather than being held in the charro’s gloved hands, is tied like a noose around his neck and he uses his body to cause the horse to fall and roll.

The history and culture of the Charrería goes back to the 17th and 18th centuries and has evolved over time into this sport. It originated from farm-hands working with cattle and horses or vaqueros competing against each to test their skills. Eventually it developed into a competition when neighboring haciendas would come together with their cows and horses to sell or for branding.

To be a charro is not just a pastime for an occasional weekend, it’s a way of life that has largely been forgotten by those who live in urban areas. The entire culture may seem at odds with an urban mindset, however this is a way of life born of necessity centuries ago, with deep traditions and values that continue to be celebrated today. Some events, beliefs, and cultures may not be what we’re accustomed to, and what is normal and acceptable to one person is not the same as it is for others. This is why we travel. This is part of why we love living in different parts of the world, to experience different cultures, to explore others’ beliefs and perhaps to question our own, but to not be too quick to pass judgment.  

There is much to be said for this kind of authentic cultural event and much to celebrate about this kind of life that many people in the world never have a chance to experience. Charreadas is a Mexican traditional competition that tests a charro’s abilities and mastery of the knowledge and skills that are essential to their culture and their way of life; treating animals with care and respect, athleticism, teamwork, roping, lassoing, horse control skills, and it is exhilarating to watch.

The Garden Guild

Postales del Paraíso

The Garden Guild

I thought I’d left the flower shop behind, but as soon as everyone here found out that Cathy had once owned a floral business, members of The Garden Guild raised an enormous din, clamoring for her to join.

I’ve now gotten used to coming home to find thirty women diligently arranging flowers under Cathy’s watchful eye, or being informed at breakfast that, “Oh, by the way a carload of women will be here in five minutes so you can take us all to the Guadalajara flower market”, or hearing from a stranger on the street “ Thanks to you and Cathy for agreeing to provide the centerpieces for all the tables at the big event tomorrow!”

Cathy immediately became the group’s program director for this year to the non-stop accolades of everyone involved, and has been asked by several long term members to please consider taking over as president in 2019. So far she has declined but it’s not for lack of arm-twisting.

The Garden Guild puts on a floral show each November to raise money for several charities and each member is required to participate by producing an arrangement as part of the evening’s presentation. So for weeks before the event as group expectations and individual anxieties begin to rise, a long line of women extends out our front door hoping for some help and guidance. Some want help picking out flowers at the Guadalajara market, “How do I tell if this is fresh?” “They don’t have the flowers that I wanted to use. NOW what do I do!” Others have seen a photo in a magazine but have no idea how to go about the mechanics to construct the arrangement. “How did they do that?” “How do I get this flower to stand up straight?” And still others ,“I’m going to be out of town, if I give you money to buy the flowers can you do the arrangement for me?”

This is a truly wonderful group of very accomplished women, who are extremely supportive of each other and have done much for the community, and Cathy is eager to provide whatever guidance she is able, but it is a colossal undertaking. Everyone who is anyone in this town attends this annual social event held in the home and gardens of a large private residence and expectations are high.

The show is not juried, there are no awards or prizes given, only the appreciation, accolades, hugs, kisses, and occasional OMG! of the crowd. Cathy’s arrangement was the clear winner. It was center stage at the event, it was the talk of the evening, and it was the headline photo for the event in the Guadalajara newspaper the next day. One of the group posted the photo on Facebook and the effusion of praise continues to pour in not only from Mexico, but the U.S. Canada, and well beyond.

I think I may need to rent a bus to get everyone who wants to go to the flower market with Cathy next year!

Dia de los Muertos 2018

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